Image courtesy of sotheby's

Virgil Abloh was born on September 30, 1980, in Rockford, Illinois, to Ghanaian immigrant parents. His early exposure to fashion came from his mother, a seamstress who taught him the basics of sewing, while his father’s work as a manager in a paint company instilled a strong work ethic. Despite an initial focus on engineering, Abloh’s creative instincts led him toward design.

After earning a degree in civil engineering from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, he pursued a master's in architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology (IIT). At IIT, he was inspired by a building designed by architect Rem Koolhaas, which introduced him to the concept of blending different disciplines—an approach that would define his career.

Abloh’s entrance into the fashion world came through an internship at Fendi in 2009, where he worked alongside Kanye West. Their partnership deepened, and Abloh became the creative director of West’s agency, Donda. He also contributed to the design of Kanye and Jay-Z’s Watch the Throne album cover, cementing his role as a multidisciplinary creative force.

In 2012, he launched Pyrex Vision, a project that repurposed deadstock Ralph Lauren shirts with bold graphics and branding. This venture evolved into Off-White in 2013, a luxury streetwear brand that redefined contemporary fashion with its distinctive diagonal stripes, quotation marks, and industrial aesthetics. The success of Off-White positioned Abloh as a leading figure in the fashion industry, attracting collaborations with Nike, IKEA, and even museums.

In March 2018, Abloh made history as the first Black artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear, a milestone that signified a shift in the fashion world. His appointment was groundbreaking—not just because of his race but because he came from a streetwear background rather than traditional luxury fashion training.

His debut collection for Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2019 was a powerful statement. Featuring an all-Black cast of models and a rainbow-colored runway, it reflected themes of diversity, inclusivity, and breaking boundaries. The collection merged streetwear with high fashion, featuring oversized silhouettes, utility vests, harnesses, and reimagined classic Louis Vuitton bags. It also introduced Abloh’s signature approach to branding, where accessories and garments often featured ironic quotation marks, such as "Bag" and "Wallet."

Defining Louis Vuitton Collections by Virgil Abloh

Abloh’s first collection reinterpreted Louis Vuitton’s heritage through a contemporary lens. He introduced his famous transparent Keepall bag, gradient-colored leather jackets, and Wizard of Oz-inspired graphics. The show was a celebration of cultural diversity, with models from all over the world, symbolizing Abloh’s belief in breaking down barriers in fashion.

Fall/Winter 2019: The Art of Tailoring

For his second collection, Abloh focused on elevating traditional menswear tailoring while maintaining his streetwear roots. He played with oversized proportions, deconstructed suits, and added unexpected elements like gloves with exaggerated cuffs. He also experimented with trompe-l'œil (optical illusion) effects, making garments appear two-dimensional when viewed from certain angles.

Spring/Summer 2020: The Garden of Eden

This collection took inspiration from nature, with floral prints, oversized hats, and soft pastel colors. Abloh also introduced his boyhood ideology, which emphasized curiosity, playfulness, and imagination. The collection featured inflatable vests, giant floral coats, and origami-like handbags, demonstrating his ability to blend fantasy with high fashion.

Fall/Winter 2020: The New Formality

Abloh explored the idea of power dressing and formality in menswear. He deconstructed traditional business attire, incorporating streetwear influences such as monogrammed puffer jackets and Louis Vuitton-branded ties. The collection included surrealist elements, like cloud-print suits, that challenged the idea of corporate fashion.

Spring/Summer 2021: The Message of Upcycling

One of Abloh’s most impactful collections, this show emphasized sustainability and repurposing materials. Many of the garments were crafted from upcycled fabrics, aligning with the fashion industry's growing focus on environmental responsibility. His designs also featured cartoonish, exaggerated silhouettes, referencing the idea of childlike imagination.

Fall/Winter 2021: A Tribute to Black Culture

This collection was deeply personal for Abloh, featuring themes of Black empowerment and global influences. The show was held at the Tennis Club de Paris and included references to James Baldwin’s Stranger in the Village, a work about the Black experience in predominantly white spaces. The garments blended luxury tailoring with street culture, featuring oversized coats, Louis Vuitton monogrammed duffle bags, and bold graphics.

Spring/Summer 2022: The Final Collection

Presented posthumously, this collection was a tribute to Abloh’s life and creative vision. It was filled with his signature elements—deconstruction, cultural references, and avant-garde silhouettes. The show felt like a celebration rather than a farewell, reflecting his belief that fashion should be fun, inclusive, and boundary-breaking.

Abloh’s tenure at Louis Vuitton extended beyond clothing—he reshaped the brand’s cultural identity. His collaborations played a crucial role in this transformation:

• Louis Vuitton x NBA – A groundbreaking partnership that brought sports aesthetics into high fashion, featuring leather basketballs, varsity jackets, and travel gear.
• Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 – One of the most coveted sneaker collaborations, merging Louis Vuitton’s craftsmanship with the streetwear credibility of Nike’s iconic silhouette.
• Louis Vuitton x NIGO – A collaboration with the Japanese designer, blending classic LV patterns with bold, youthful designs.

A Vision That Lives On

On November 28, 2021, Virgil Abloh passed away at the age of 41 after a private battle with cardiac angiosarcoma. His death was a tragic loss for the fashion industry, but his legacy continues to shape the way luxury brands engage with culture, youth, and social issues.

Today, his influence lives on in every designer who dares to break the rules, proving that true creativity knows no boundaries.