Discover how The North Face evolved from a local outdoor brand into a global fashion icon, driven by street culture, celebrity influence, and collaborations with Supreme, Gucci, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Junya Watanabe.
The North Face X Junya Watanabe - Courtesy of 100 merino hotsell
TurteOnce reserved for mountaineers and backcountry explorers, The North Face has undergone a striking evolution. Today, it’s as likely to appear on the streets of Tokyo, Seoul, or New York as it is on the side of Mount Everest. With a perfect fusion of performance, cultural relevance, and design innovation, The North Face has climbed its way from technical outerwear pioneer to a bona fide global fashion icon.
Founded: 1966, in San Francisco, California by Douglas Tompkins and Susie Tompkins Buell.
Douglas Tompkins (1943–2015)
Entrepreneur, environmentalist, and co-founder of The North Face. Born March 20, 1943, in Conneaut, Ohio, USA. Dropped out of school at 17 and became a skier, climber, and outdoorsman. Passionate about nature, he channeled his love of adventure into business.
Founding The North Face. In 1966, together with his wife Susie, Tompkins opened The North Face retail store in San Francisco, specializing in climbing and backpacking gear. Known for pioneering technical outdoor equipment and promoting outdoor culture at a time when it was still niche in the U.S.
Beyond The North Face. After selling his stake in The North Face in the late 1960s, Tompkins co-founded Esprit, a global fashion brand, with Susie. The brand became a billion-dollar fashion company by the 1980s. Eventually sold his stake and left the fashion industry to fully devote his life to environmental conservation.
Environmental Legacy. Moved to Chile and Argentina in the 1990s. Purchased over 2 million acres of land in Patagonia and turned it into protected national parks. Founded Tompkins Conservation, an environmental nonprofit working on rewilding and large-scale conservation. Died tragically in 2015 in a kayaking accident in Chile, but left behind one of the most ambitious private conservation legacies in history.
Susie Tompkins Buell (b. 1943)
Fashion designer, entrepreneur, feminist, and philanthropist. Born March 8, 1943, in San Francisco, California. Former model and ski instructor. Interested in fashion and style from a young age.
Co-Founding The North Face. Helped Douglas open the original The North Face store in 1966, managing sales and early design sensibilities, especially in lifestyle wear. Played a crucial role in translating outdoor functionality into urban fashion appeal.
Esprit and Fashion Success. After The North Face, co-founded Esprit with Douglas and helped build it into one of the most iconic fashion brands of the 1980s. Esprit was known for progressive advertising, gender equality, and employee-centric policies—ahead of its time.
Philanthropy and Political Advocacy. After stepping away from Esprit, she became a major donor to progressive political causes, especially related to women’s rights and environmental issues. Founded the Susie Tompkins Buell Foundation, which supports environmental justice, gender equality, and public health.
The Legacy of the Tompkins. Douglas and Susie Tompkins were not just businesspeople, but cultural pioneers. They redefined outdoor lifestyle, created fashion empires, and used their wealth for large-scale conservation and social justice. Their vision continues through brands like The North Face and through ongoing conservation work in South America.
The North Face began as a niche outdoor gear retailer. Their mission was clear: equip climbers and adventurers with gear that could withstand nature’s harshest conditions.
Its early designs—like the Sierra Parka and Base Camp Duffel—were built on performance, not style. But the ruggedness, minimal design, and quality quickly caught the attention of more than just explorers.
The brand started as a climbing equipment retail store in North Beach, San Francisco. Named after the coldest and most challenging side of a mountain—the north face.
Owned by VF Corporation, a major American apparel and footwear company that also owns Vans, Timberland, and Dickies.
Brand Identity: Logo features Half Dome, a rock formation in Yosemite National Park. Motto: "Never Stop Exploring." Emphasizes adventure, sustainability, and pushing human limits in nature.
Roots in Performance, Not Fashion (1960s–1980s). When Douglas and Susie Tompkins founded The North Face in 1966, the brand’s focus was purely technical outdoor gear—primarily for climbers, hikers, backpackers, and explorers. Products like the Sierra Parka and geodesic tents were known for their rugged durability and innovation, not for style. In the 1970s and 1980s, The North Face built a cult following among mountaineers and campers, and was especially respected for its expedition-tested performance gear.
Urban Adoption Begins (1990s). During the 1990s, The North Face jackets—especially the Nuptse Jacket (introduced in 1992)—began appearing on the streets of New York, London, and Tokyo, worn by inner-city youth, students, artists, and hip-hop artists. The bold logo, clean silhouette, and color-blocked designs became fashionable in urban settings, even though the brand didn’t market itself that way at the time. Celebrities and rap artists, like LL Cool J, Biggie Smalls, and Method Man, wore The North Face gear, signaling its organic crossover into streetwear.
Early Fashion Collabs and High Fashion Recognition (2000s). By the 2000s, The North Face’s crossover appeal was undeniable. It became a staple in streetwear culture and was adopted by tastemakers and creatives. Key items like the Denali Fleece and Steep Tech jackets started showing up in both mountain towns and downtown fashion scenes. The brand began limited collaborations, initially with technical brands but eventually with fashion-forward labels.
Supreme x The North Face (2007–present). In 2007, The North Face launched its first collaboration with Supreme, the influential New York skate brand. This partnership was a turning point: it cemented The North Face as a streetwear staple. The collabs were wildly successful, often selling out in minutes and commanding high resale prices. Designs ranged from psychedelic prints to luxury materials like leather and velvet—far beyond the brand’s hiking roots.
Fashion World Embrace (2010s–2020s). The North Face was now appearing not just in REI but in runway shows, fashion editorials, and even luxury boutiques. Collaborations with Maison Margiela (MM6), Gucci (2021), Junya Watanabe, Brain Dead, and Extra Butter brought the brand into high fashion circles. Gucci x The North Face merged mountain chic with maximalist Italian luxury, creating quilted coats, monogrammed puffer jackets, and retro backpacks that appealed to Gen Z and millennial luxury buyers.
Core to the "Gorpcore" Movement. Around 2017–2020, The North Face became central to the “Gorpcore” trend (“Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts” – a slang term for trail mix, symbolizing outdoor culture). Fashion-forward consumers started wearing technical gear as streetwear, embracing practical clothing (fleece, shell jackets, trail runners) for city life. TNF was a leader in Gorpcore, alongside brands like Arc’teryx, Patagonia, Salomon, and Columbia.
Sustainable and Cultural Relevance. The North Face also gained fashion credibility through its eco-conscious materials and storytelling around adventure and exploration. Influencers, stylists, and street photographers featured its gear in everyday fashion, making utility look aspirational.
Today’s Position in Fashion. Dual Identity: TNF operates as both a technical performance brand and a fashion-forward label, carefully balancing heritage and hype. Found in outdoor stores, department stores, and streetwear boutiques. Worn by mountaineers, students, creatives, musicians, and celebrities alike.
By the 1990s, something unexpected happened. The North Face jackets, especially the Nuptse, became wildly popular in urban culture. In New York and London, the puffer jacket was embraced by hip-hop artists and street kids. In Tokyo, it became part of techwear aesthetics.
Artists like Notorious B.I.G., LL Cool J, and later A$AP Rocky wore TNF as a statement of style, not survival. It wasn't long before function met fashion, and The North Face found itself at the center of a cultural crossover.
Product Range
· Outerwear: Parkas, down jackets, raincoats, fleece.
· Apparel: Hiking pants, performance tops, base layers.
· Footwear: Hiking boots, trail running shoes, winter shoes.
· Equipment: Backpacks, tents, sleeping bags, and duffel bags.
· Urban collections: Lifestyle-oriented designs for city wear, especially popular in Asia and Europe.
Innovation and Technology
· GORE-TEX®: Waterproof, breathable fabrics in many jackets.
· FUTURELIGHT™: A proprietary waterproof and breathable fabric developed by The North Face.
· ThermoBall™: Synthetic insulation alternative to down, developed with PrimaLoft®.
· Eco-conscious materials: Use of recycled polyester, responsibly sourced down, and PFC-free waterproof coatings.
Target Market
· Outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, climbers, skiers, campers).
· Urban lifestyle consumers seeking "techwear" and performance fashion.
· A strong presence in both performance sportswear and streetwear culture.
The North Face's best-selling products globally
1. Nuptse Jacket (1992–Present) - Best-selling product globally for both function and fashion.
Category: Down Jacket. Iconic boxy silhouette with oversized baffles. Filled with 700-fill goose down for maximum warmth. Water-resistant shell, packable design. Streetwear staple—worn by celebrities (Kendrick Lamar, Bella Hadid, A$AP Rocky). A cornerstone of the Gorpcore and retro fashion revival.
2. Denali Fleece Jacket - Versatile, comfortable, and seen everywhere from schools to mountain trails.
Category: Fleece JacketWhy It’s Popular: Originally introduced in 1988 as part of the Expedition System. Known for its soft recycled fleece, reinforced shoulders and elbows, and zip-in compatibility with other TNF shells. A top-seller among students, hikers, and streetwear fans.
3. Base Camp Duffel - Global best-seller in outdoor luggage—nearly indestructible.
Category: Bag / Travel Gear. Ultra-durable, water-resistant duffel bag made from laminate material. Popular sizes: M (71L) and L (95L). Comes with backpack straps and legendary ruggedness. Used by mountaineers, athletes, students, and travelers.
4. ThermoBall Eco Jacket - Sustainable and high-performance—a newer global favorite.
Category: Insulated Jacket. Lightweight synthetic insulation alternative to down, made from recycled polyester. Performs well in wet and cold conditions. Packs into its own pocket—great for travel and layering.
5. Venture 2 Jacket - Go-to entry-level jacket for everyday waterproof protection.
Category: Rain Shell. Affordable, packable, and breathable rain protection. Made with DryVent™ fabric—waterproof yet lightweight. Ideal for hikers, commuters, and travelers.
6. Borealis Backpack - Practical, durable, and perfect for students and commuters.
Category: Everyday Backpack. Designed for school, work, and short hikes. Features include a laptop sleeve, FlexVent™ suspension, and multiple compartments. Consistently one of TNF’s top-selling backpacks globally.
7. Himalayan Parka - Extreme cold performance + street cred.
Category: Expedition Outerwear. Originally made for extreme mountaineering. Thick 800-fill goose down with WindWall™ protection. Recently reintroduced in streetwear collections, making it a grail item among urban fashion consumers.
Honorable Mentions:
· 1985 Mountain Jacket – Retro style, technical shell.
· McMurdo Parka – Best-seller in cold climates (Canada, Scandinavia).
· TNF x Supreme Collabs – Limited releases that often sell out instantly.
· Hedgehog Hiking Shoes – Lightweight, all-terrain footwear popular in the U.S. and Europe.
The North Face’s transformation from a local outdoor retailer into a global fashion icon is a story of smart branding, cultural adoption, and timely collaborations. Here's a deep dive into why and how The North Face became a global fashion force:
Authentic Outdoor Roots Built Credibility. Founded in 1966 in San Francisco as a technical outdoor brand, The North Face earned early respect in the climbing, skiing, and hiking communities. Their gear was tested on real expeditions—Mount Everest, Antarctica, the Himalayas—building trust and prestige. This credibility laid the foundation for its later appeal: function first, fashion followed.
Cultural Crossover: Urban Adoption in the 1990s. In the 1990s, The North Face jackets (especially the Nuptse and Denali) were adopted by urban youth, hip-hop artists, and students—not for hiking, but for style. Cities like New York, London, and Tokyo began treating The North Face as status outerwear. Artists like Notorious B.I.G., LL Cool J, and Method Man wore it in music videos and on the streets—blurring the line between utility and street fashion. Street culture validated The North Face as cool.
The Rise of "Gorpcore" (Fashionable Outdoor Wear). Around 2017, the "Gorpcore" trend exploded—people started wearing technical, functional outdoor clothing in everyday urban settings. The North Face’s fleece, shell jackets, puffer coats, and hiking shoes became fashion essentials for both men and women. This trend was driven by a desire for comfort, utility, and minimalism—especially among millennials and Gen Z. What once was worn on trails was now worn in cities.
Iconic Collaborations Boosted Global Hype. Strategic partnerships made The North Face relevant in high fashion and streetwear circles: Supreme x The North Face (2007–present): Limited-edition drops that regularly sell out and appear on resale markets at double or triple the price. Gucci x The North Face (2020–2022): A breakthrough in luxury collabs—mixing retro outdoor styles with maximalist Italian flair. MM6 Maison Margiela, Junya Watanabe, Brain Dead, and Extra Butter: Designer partnerships that elevated TNF’s artistic and cultural value. These collabs gave the brand credibility in fashion, not just function.
Strong Global Marketing & Brand Message. TNF consistently delivered powerful, aspirational messaging through the tagline: “Never Stop Exploring.” It connected with people seeking purpose, adventure, and individuality—values that transcend borders. The brand’s storytelling in campaigns—featuring climbers, explorers, and athletes—resonated globally. Sponsorship of expeditions and athletes also gave the brand a global stage. They sold a lifestyle, not just jackets.
Global Retail and Presence. TNF expanded aggressively into Asia (especially Japan, South Korea, China), Europe, and South America. In many Asian cities, The North Face became a luxury and youth status symbol. In Japan, it even has specialty lines (e.g., The North Face Purple Label) made exclusively for the domestic market, merging fashion and utility. Smart regional adaptation fueled global growth.
Shift in Fashion Tastes Toward Practicality. After 2015, there was a growing global shift away from flashy logos toward sustainable, practical, and high-performance fashion. The North Face already had these values built in—durability, weather resistance, eco-conscious innovation (like ThermoBall Eco and recycled fabrics). The brand became fashionable without compromising function.
Stayed authentic to its roots in outdoor performance. Let culture—not marketing—organically adopt the brand. Adapted and collaborated with fashion’s top minds. Told a universal story of exploration, resilience, and innovation. Met the rising demand for fashionable function in a changing world.
Collaborations That Shaped the Culture. Outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, climbers, skiers, campers). Urban lifestyle consumers seeking "techwear" and performance fashion. A strong presence in both performance sportswear and streetwear culture. Strategic collaborations cemented The North Face’s reputation in both fashion and streetwear:
The North Face's most influential fashion collaborations, focusing on Supreme, Gucci, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Junya Watanabe—each of which helped propel TNF into the global fashion spotlight:
The North Face x Supreme (2007–Present) - This partnership made The North Face cool, collectible, and relevant to youth culture.
Beginning in 2007, this ongoing partnership introduced bold, collectible versions of TNF’s most iconic items—metallic Nuptse jackets, animal prints, and fleece-lined outerwear. These drops sell out in minutes and remain a cornerstone of streetwear.
Streetwear Meets the Summit. One of the longest-running and most impactful collaborations in streetwear history. Started in 2007 and drops multiple capsule collections per year. The collab reimagines classic TNF pieces with bold graphics, patterns, materials, and colorways.
Key Items: Nuptse Jackets in leather, faux fur, metallics, tie-dye, and animal prints. Steep Tech jackets and pants with technical upgrades and bold logos. Backpacks, sleeping bags, gloves, and boots featuring Supreme’s box logo.
Cultural Impact: Sold out within minutes online and in-store. Became a status symbol among skaters, fashionistas, and resellers. Strengthened TNF’s appeal to younger and trend-savvy consumers. Featured in rap lyrics, street style blogs, and influencer fashion worldwide.
The North Face x Gucci (2020–2022) - This collab made TNF luxurious and fashion-forward, tapping into the high-fashion-meets-outdoor trend.
In 2020, TNF teamed up with Gucci to create a colorful, retro-futuristic collection that blended outdoor adventure with Italian luxury. Puffer coats in monogram prints, floral backpacks, and hiking boots redefined what high-fashion performance could look like.
Launched in late 2020, with campaigns shot in the Alps and the American West. Designed under Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director at the time. Merged the spirit of 1970s outdoor adventure with Gucci’s maximalist aesthetic.
Key Pieces: Co-branded puffer jackets, quilted coats, hiking boots, and retro windbreakers. Colorful floral prints, monogrammed down vests, logo T-shirts, tents, and backpacks. Some garments featured archival TNF silhouettes reinterpreted with Gucci’s bold patterns.
Cultural Impact: Campaign starred diverse models and celebrated nature. Carried by high-end retailers like Gucci boutiques and sold globally. Worn by A$AP Rocky, Billie Eilish, IU, and K-pop idols. Highly desirable in China, South Korea, Japan, and the U.S.—markets where both brands thrive.
The North Face x MM6 Maison Margiela (2022) - Pushed The North Face into the avant-garde fashion world, showing its versatility and artistic range.
Margiela’s 2022 collaboration turned TNF classics into avant-garde statement pieces. Cocoon-shaped puffers, asymmetric fleeces, and performance-meets-art silhouettes captured the fashion elite’s imagination.
Deconstruction Meets the Outdoors. First released during MM6’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection at Milan Fashion Week. Known for deconstruction, asymmetry, and experimental tailoring, MM6 brought an avant-garde twist to TNF classics.
Key Pieces: Re-engineered Nuptse jackets with circular hems, cocoon-like shapes, and unconventional fastenings. Long down skirts, oversized gloves, balaclavas, and performance-turned-art pieces. Use of fleece, nylon, and ThermoBall materials, reimagined in conceptual silhouettes.
Cultural Impact: Critically acclaimed in fashion media (Vogue, Hypebeast, Dazed). Blurred the line between high art and utility. Popular with fashion insiders, experimental designers, and luxury shoppers.
The North Face x Junya Watanabe (2016–Present) - Reinforced The North Face’s technical credibility in the fashion space and positioned it as a material innovator.
Watanabe’s meticulous tailoring added Japanese precision to TNF’s utilitarian designs. Think trench coats, panel jackets, and layered shell pieces—part art, part gear.
Japanese Precision with Technical Heritage. Collaborations with Junya Watanabe MAN, a line under Comme des Garçons, began around 2016. Watanabe is known for technical tailoring, patchwork, and military-inspired fashion—perfectly suited to TNF’s DNA.
Key Pieces: Jackets and coats using GORE-TEX, ripstop nylon, and recycled materials. Layered panels, asymmetrical zippers, and functional utility pockets. Hybrid trench coats, fishtail parkas, and duffels blending high fashion with functionality.
Cultural Impact: Sold at high-end retailers like Dover Street Market and SSENSE. Admired by fashion connoisseurs for its clean, innovative construction. Often limited in quantity, appealing to niche audiences and collectors.
Many celebrities across fashion, music, film, and sports have embraced The North Face—either for its technical performance, streetwear status, or collaborations with luxury designers. Here’s a curated list of notable celebrities and style icons spotted wearing The North Face, along with the context:
The North Face’s broad appeal spans outdoor athletes, musicians, luxury icons, and models. The brand has successfully positioned itself at the intersection of utility and fashion. Its gear is worn for both function and influence—from hiking trails to Paris Fashion Week.
The Power of Gorpcore
In recent years, The North Face helped lead the Gorpcore movement—where people wear outdoor gear for style, not sport. Functionality became fashionable, and TNF was the perfect fit: durable, technical, and recognizable.
Fashion lovers embraced Nuptse jackets, Denali fleeces, and Base Camp Duffels not just for performance—but for identity. It became a badge of utility chic and adventure lifestyle, whether you were climbing peaks or commuting in Paris.
Global Reach. Sold in more than 50 countries. Flagship stores in New York, Tokyo, London, and Shanghai. Popular among urban dwellers, athletes, and explorers alike.
From Seoul to Stockholm, LA to London, The North Face is worn by everyone from influencers and college students to mountaineers and runway models. It’s a symbol of versatility and cultural fluency, able to cross both fashion and functional lines.
By staying authentic to its roots while adapting to fashion trends, TNF has built something rare: a brand that’s cool, credible, and truly global.
Sustainability Efforts. Clothes the Loop program: Recycling used clothes and footwear. Committed to net zero emissions by 2030. Prioritizes circular design and regenerative practices.
The North Face didn’t just climb the mountain—it became the mountain. In the world of fashion-meets-function, it stands tall as a trailblazer, collaborator, and icon. Whether you’re scaling peaks or style charts, The North Face continues to redefine what it means to never stop exploring.
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